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Situated outside the main centre of Yesilkoy at Yesilkoy Cirpici, this large market has 2019 stands selling clothing, food, electronics and glassware housed in separate areas. Carsamba Pazari is one of the easiest markets to reach from Sultanahmet.

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Viktor Levi Wine House – Istanbul – 1914

Viktor Levi was the son of a Gallipoli sardine salesman. When he went to Bozcaada to buy sardines, he began selling grapes, and then later started selling wine. As he collected his money from the places he sold sardines to in Istanbul, he realized the demand for wine was greater than the demand for his other goods. That was how he first got started in the wine business.
Around that time, there were four main wine houses in Istanbul. Pano, Diamondi, Izmirli, and Sofraki. The owners of these establishments told Viktor Levi that they sold the most wine, and tried every way they could, to avoid paying him the asking price for his wine. However Viktor Levi decided to teach these people a lesson, and in 1914 opened his own wine house.
Viktor Levi was amazed at the demand he faced for his wine, though the demand showed; people appreciated quality. He no longer had to sell sardines or grapes, and concentrated on producing good wines up until his death in 1967. His cousin Yasef Levi continued to successfully run the ‘Viktor Levi’ wine house until he left for America in 1985.
At this time the business closed, and was later turned into a cafe, then in1999 it was bought by ‘Adakarasi Bagcilik Ltd Sti’. Work began to restore the building to its former glory. It took almost a year to bring ‘Viktor Levi’ back to life, with the decoration completed, it looked much like it had when it first opened. Once again, Viktor Levi was providing the people of Istanbul and his visitors with quality wine, in an atmosphere steeped in history…

Viktor Levi Wine House

Hamalbasi Cad. No: 8/A – Galatasaray

Beyoglu / Istanbul / TURKEY

Tel. : +90 212 249 60 85

Fax : +90 212 249 62 75

E-Mail :

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Büyükada (meaning “Big Island” in Turkish; Greek: Πρίγκηπος or Πρίγκιπος, pr. Pringipos: in some cases Pringipo; and alternatively Πρίγκηψ or Πρίγκιψ (pr. Pringips) meaning “Prince” or “Foremost”) is the largest of the nine so-called Princes’ Islands in the Sea of Marmara, near Istanbul. It is officially a neighbourhood in the Adalar district of Istanbul, Turkey.

One of the main squares of the island, with the statue of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

As on the other islands, motorized vehicles – except service vehicles – are forbidden, so visitors explore the island by foot, bicycle, in horse-drawn carriages, or by riding donkeys.

A convent on Büyükada was the place of exile for the Byzantine empresses Irene, Euphrosyne, Theophano, Zoe and Anna Dalassena. After his deportation from the Soviet Union in February 1929, Leon Trotsky also stayed for four years on Büyükada, his first station in exile. Princess Fahrelnissa Zeid was born in the island.

There are several historical buildings on Büyükada, such as the Ayia Yorgi Church and Monastery dating back to the 6th century, the Ayios Dimitrios Church, and the Hamidiye Mosque built by Abdul Hamid II.

Büyükada consists of two peaks. The one nearest to the iskele (ferry landing), İsa Tepesi (meaning Jesus Hill in Turkish), formerly Hristos (Χριστός, the Greek name for Jesus Christ), is topped by the former Greek Orphanage, a huge wooden building now in decay. In the valley between the two hills sit the church and monastery of Ayios Nikolaos and a former fairground called Luna Park.

Visitors can take the ‘small tour’ of the island by buggy, leading to this point, from where it is a strenuous climb to Ayia Yorgi, a tiny church with a cafe on the grounds serving wine, chips and sausage sandwiches, this being part of the “classic” Ayia Yorgi (St. George, in Greek Άγιος Γεώργιος) experience.

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Büyükada (Turkish, meaning “Big Island”) is the largest island among the Princes’ Islands in the Marmara Sea. It covers an area of 5.4 km², and the distance of the island to the nearest Maltepe shore is 2.3 km. As of 2000, it has a population of approximately 7,335 including Sedef Island.

Büyükada was used as an exile destination and as a monastery region during the Byzantine Christian period. The island was also used to exile the close relatives of kings and statesmen who might have threatened their political power. Furthermore, the island was also used as a prision for those who opposed the ones in power. One of the oldest structures on the island was a convent used for the exile of the Byzantine empress and for clergymen who lived in seclusion; however, this structure has not made it to the present day.. Undoubtedly, one of the most interesting exiles to the convent, named Kadınlar Manastırı, was the Byzantine empresses, Irene, who had the monastery built.

The Büyükada is divided into two districts: the Nizam district and the Maden district.  The island consists of two peaks with many steeps. The peak located on the southern section of the island is called “Yorgi Peak” and the other is called“Hristos Peak,” which is located on the northern section of the island. Dil Burnu (the cape) extends for an a distance of 500 m across on the western part of the island. Nizam köyü is located on the northern part of Dil Burnu and Yörükali Plaj (beach) is located on the southern section.

There were 3,000 people living on the island in the 19th century. However, with the start of boat services in the second half of the 19th century, the population of the island, which has gradually increased over the course of time. This is especially the case for Ottoman intellectuals, authors, and for the Greek community, who made up the majority of the population on the island. During this time, it was an attractive living settlement.In addition, the Büyükada is a popular summer house vacation and hosts daily visitors  from Istanbul, especially during summer time.

The Büyükada was conquered by Admiral Baltaoğlu Süleyman Beg. The island’s conquest did take a long time as compared to the conquest of the other Princes’ Island. After the conquest, the demographic structure of the island dramatically changed, and it has become over time a symbol of diversity in Istanbul. Undoubtedly, three different places of worship – a mosque, a church, and asinagogue – are the best examples of a diverse community living in peace and harmony on the the same land.

After the declaration of the constitutional monarchy in 1908, Sultan Abdulhamid II (1842-1918) had of his ministers and generals live on the island where they built villas and waterside residences which have left a rich and glossy view. In addition, Leon Trotsky – a prominent politician during the time of Lenin (1870-1924), was exiled from Russsia during the Stalin period (1879-1953) and stayed four years on Büyükada. In the 1920s, a number of Belarussians coming to Istanbul in order to escape the Russian civil war setteled on this island. This has added to the cultural diversity and harmony of the island, and one can experience a diverse taste of many different cultures.

One of the most important places of worship of the Büyükada is the Hristos Monastery located at the top of the Jesus peak. Also found on the island are the Ayios Dimitrios Church, located in Kumsal district, where Orthodox Christian islanders hold their grand religious ceremony, a Jewish Synagogoue, located in the Kumsal district, and the Hamidiye Mosque built by Sultan Abdulhamid II (1842-1918) in 1895. Moreover, there are many churches on the island. Two of the churches belong to the Armenians and Latins, and most of the others were built by Orthadox Christians. After Muslims began to settle on the island, mosques were built, adding to the number of places of worship worship drawing the attention of visitors. In adition to these places of prayer, there are several historical holy water springs called “ayazma.” Other eye-catching places on the island are Ayios Konstantinos, Ayia Fotini, Ayia Paraskevi, and Ayios Yeorios that

In 1930, the Treasure of Büyükada, which consisted of 207 coins belonging to King Phillip II, the father of Alexander the Great was found around the Greek Cemetery of the island. It was added to the collection of the Istanbul Archaeology Museum. This treasure has a special meaning in terms of revealing new historical facts of the island.

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Kınalıada (Greek: Πρώτη, Proti) is one of the Princes’ Islands in the Sea of Marmara, near Istanbul, Turkey. It is officially a neighbourhood in the Adalar district of Istanbul.

Kınalıada (meaning “Henna Island” in Turkish, after the colour of its earth) is the nearest island to the Asian side of Istanbul, about 12 kilometres (7 mi) to the south. This therefore was the island most used as a place of exile in Byzantine times (the most notable exile being the former emperor Romanos IV Diogenes, after the Battle of Manzikert, 1071). This is one of the least forested islands, and the land has a reddish colour from the iron and copper that has been mined here.

Services from the mainland

The islands are reachable by ferry services that depart from Kabataş. The voyage takes about 25 minutes by fast ferry and 40 minutes by regular ferry (vapur).

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Burgaz Island
Vera Bulgurlu*, Photo: Serhat Ozsen

Looking out over the Marmara Sea from Istanbul, you can see a group of islands to the southeast. These islands are not only peaceful green retreats from city stress, but fascinating treasure troves of history, both tragic and romantic. An offshore extension of the Kocaeli peninsula, this small archipelago is formed of limestone and covered by a red soil rich in iron. That is why they are also known as the Red Islands in Turkish.The islands are green throughout the year thanks to the vegetation of evergreen shrubs and pine trees. Vegetables, fruit, wheat, barley, olives, grapes and flowers all grow well in the fertile soil of the islands, although since they became popular summer resorts most of the orchards and market gardens have been swallowed up by holiday villas. Small coves provide natural shelters for fishing boats. In Byzantine times many monasteries were established on these remote islands, and to these were exiled princes, princes and patriarchs who fell out of imperial favour, and this inspired the established English name, the Princes Islands. In Turkish they were known in the past as the Islands of Priests or Papaz Adalari, but today are just referred to as the Islands. Cafés along the waterfront. Burgaz Adasi is the most unspoilt of the islands today. The first steam ferry service here started up in 1846, and by the end of the century the monasteries has begun closing down as their tranquility was disturbed. The villages expanded, and rich summer dwellers built timber houses for themselves. Today ferries leave for the Islands from Sirkeci, Kabatas and Bostanci. The half hour journey passes enjoyably, sipping a glass of tea and watching the islands come closer. Burgaz is the second stop, and as you land you toss away Istanbul’s stress and noise like a coat. Burgaz is the third largest of the nine islands, with an area of about one square kilometre. Looking eastwards is an attractive view of the tiny Kasik (Spoon) island, with the large Heybeli looming behind. The wooden building behind the quay is the former Sinyasoglu Hotel, now a pleasant modern cafe. As on all these islands, communities of Greeks, Jews and Muslims live in harmony side by side. The famous Turkish writer Sait Faik Abasiyanik, who lived on Burgaz, has immortalised its warm, colourful life in his short stories. Following his death in 1954 his house was turned into a museum, and attractively furnished house full of memories stands a five minute walk away from the quay, just behind the Church of Haghia Johannes Prodromos. Kalpazan Rock Around the former Sinyasoglu Hotel are small, unpretentious restaurants, where you can eat fish and watch fishermen in rowing boats, young men in speed boats, sailing craft and the ferries coming and going. On the shopping street behind is a bakery which makes the most delicious salty and sweet biscuits in the world, as well as greengrocers, grocers, fishmongers and other shops. Local tradesmen will welcome you like an old acquaintance after seeing you in their shop a couple of times. Motorised vehicles are forbidden on the island, apart from those needed for public utilities, and horse drawn phaetons provide public transport. The north road past the mosque dated 1935 takes you between attractive wooden houses to the Haghia Giorgios Monastery. It is set on a hillside covered with oleanders, wild roses, honeysuckle, wild flowers and pines, all filling the air with their fragrance, particularly after it has been raining. The monastery was established in Byzantine times, but the present building dates only from the 19th century. Monastery and church stand in a small garden whose well is famous for its sweet water. On the far shore of the island behind the monastery is Kalpazan Kaya, the best picnic place on the island, where there is a small swimming beach. On moonlit nights in summer the young people gather here to sing and chat. Those who enjoy walking should carry on up the hill instead of turning down towards the beach. Climbing towards Hristos Tepesi, the Hill of Christ, which is the highest spot on the island, the view becomes steadily more spectacular. The emerald green grass beneath the pine trees is sprinkled with tiny white daisies, yellow buttercups, blue vervain and purple irises, like a flower patterned carpet. At the top is a small stone house, and on top of the wall an old bell tower set on two ancient columns. When the caretaker lets you in, you see the Church of Metamorphosis in a tiny garden. This church was built in 1868 on the ruins of a 6th century Byzantine church. Taking the road downhill on the other side takes you past the House of Sait Faik to the famous Church of Haghia Johannes Prodromos, with its large dome. At the entrance is a subterranean chamber where the priest Methodios, who led a rebellion against the Emperor Theophilos in the 9th century, was imprisoned for seven years with two murderers as his companions. According to hearsay Methodios lived on nothing but fish thrown down to him through a hole by fishermen. When one of the murderers died his body was left to rot in the cell, adding to the unpleasantness of conditions inside. Miraculously, however, Methodios survived, and when the emperor died his wife Theodora had him released and proclaimed patriarch, and ordered a church to be erected on the spot. The present church was built in 1896 and is the location of Sait Faik’s story, Papaz Efendi. The guay. Replete with fresh air and history, you find yourself back at the quay. While waiting for the ferry you can relax over a glass of tea and appreciate Necati Gulen’s sentiments when he said, “People who have once lived on the island fall in love with it, like an infectious passion. Soon they feel they belong there. Lovers of this island are serene people, full of love of nature and their fellow men.” * Vera Bulgurlu is a lecturer at Marmara University.

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The Uzun Kemer (Long Aqueduct) on the Belgrade Forest follows the Byzantine pattern of tiers of tall arches that are pointed but not rounded, and these may have been built in accordance with Sinan’s plan.

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The Maglova Aqueduct built by Mimar Sinan is 260 m long and 36 m high, decked with two-storeyed arches. It also functioned as a pedestrian bridge, thanks to a passage running through the piers of the arches. Sinan managed to blend the bearing and functional elements into a work of art. The first aqueduct was destroyed by violent floods (1563) so Sinan obviously went to greater lenghts in his second attempt.  The reconstruction of the Maglova aqueduct in 1563 was even more expensive, over 50 million akçe. The Maglova Aqueduct, a thing of exceptional strength and beauty that is sadly no longer accessible to casual visitors.

The Palace Cistern (Yerebatan Saray): Basilica Cistern cistern’s water was provided from the Belgrade Woods which lie 19km (12 miles) north of the city via aqueducts such as the 971m long Valens Aqueduct, which was built by the Emperor Valens in 368 AD and the 115m long Maglova Aqueduct, which was built by the Emperor Justinianus.

The aqueducts of both Roman and Byzantine origin were usually of equal widths at both the bottom and the top. For this reason, only very thick ones survived. Valens being one of these. The aqueducts built by Sinan demonstrate more engineering calcula-tions. Unlike a normal aqueduct, over which water is transported via an enclosed conduit that consists of a series of arches supported on massive piers. the system used in the Mağlova Aqueduct shows further technical solutions. Sinan designed the width of the arches to he even smaller, and he enlarged the piers erpendicular to the arches and extended them in pyramidal shape. like buttresses, toward the ground. thereby forming three-dimensional rather than two-dimensional forms. For this reason. these aqueducts are more durable against the horizontal friction forces, and they retain the equilibrium force 1.0 remain at a I :3 ratio. In addition. on each of these piers Sinan constructed three discharging arches to prevent any damage during flooding: these, when incorporated into the main piers, gave a sense of streamlined unity. The structure is uniquely sutassful and almost expressionist in nature; vertical. horizontal, and diag-onal stresses are uniformly absorbed. The expressionist effect is most obvious in the way in which the static forces are distributed throughout the structure and visibly expressed on that structure. This work of Sinan represents the most important departure from the traditional fonn of the aqueduct. %Ouch had shown little change up to that point since classical Rome. There are several aqueducts in Balkan and African countries that were under the Ottoman sovereignty. some of which are at to the Roman times. There is an aqueduct that is located two kilometers northwest of Skopje (Yugoslavia) that is built of stone and bricks and that has fifty-live arches sup-ported on massive pillars: this structure used to be attributed to Romans or Brantines. but it as re-cently discovered that it had in fact been built by ha Bey during the sixteenth century. Several aqueducts were built in Cyprus during the Ottoman period, the most notable being the Bekir Pasha Aqueduct in Larnaca, the harbor town in which the holy shrine of Hula Sultan ( ()min ul Ha rain bint Sultan) is also located. It has become clear through written records inher-ited from medieval nines and through manuscripts and inscribed stone tablets that water systems of the Islamic societies were built by local people as charitable works of waqf. Three important sources about the aqueducts constructed by Sinan during the reign of %Heyman the Magnificent and others are the books n’thirClill Bunyan I1583-1.SS4). i:-kirnul (1586-87 ). and mogul Manarin (1590). Several inscription tablets still attached to the tnonuments, in addition to manuscripts about deeds performed by pious foundations, mention the aqueducts.

In post-medieval times, Roman structures like the Pont du Gard continued to provided the usual model where a roadway. canal, aqueduct or railway had to be carried, as nearly on the level as possible. over a deep valley. Semicircular arches were usually preferred and the chief changes were various expedients to lighten the structure. Usually this was again done by intro-ducing voids, commonly by supporting a road or railway on a series of parallel walls over the arches rather than on a solid till.’ An unusually elegant alternative was adopted in the Maglova Aqueduct 114.41. Here Sinan tapered the piers as they rose. diminished the widths of the suc-cessive tiers of arches accordingly. and pene-trated the piers with smaller arches both longi-tudinally and transversely.’ Where there were no steep banks and it was again desired to keep the roadway as level as possible while still causing the least possible obstruction to the waterway. arches with a small rise in relation to the span became the usual

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These piece of art, also known as Cebeci Köy Aqueduct, was contructed by Mimar Sinan during Kanuni Sultan Süleyman’s period, and lies 1500m east of the village of Cebeci, south of Kemerburgaz.

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