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URBAN LEGENDS
Büyük Valide Han: a hidden treasure among the ordinary
Have you ever been to Tahtakale, Eminönü? If you walk past the knickknack and brick-a-brack stores and countless bead shops, backgammon sellers and textile dealers, you will reach an area called Mercan.There are
some ordinary looking buildings, but all you have to do to understand the grandeur and antiquity of some of the historic buildings among them is take a look at their roofs, which are covered with domes, or enter them and come across age-old courtyards that look like souks you’d find in any Middle Eastern city, which tourists would flock to if they were in a touristy area. However, here in Mercan, these souk-like city hans still continue their mercantile routine enmeshed with textile and metal ateliers where the ordinary and the fascinating stand shoulder-to-shoulder. Then you find yourself asking, “Is it better that a treasure, a historical beauty, stay like this, almost hidden among the ordinary, or should ‘cultural preservation’ work be carried out to highlight its historical worth?”
I guess the most efficient way to protect a historical entity, be it a building, a palace, a garden or a statue, is to have one’s personal and emotional connection to it be reflected and transmitted to others in an effort to “preserve” it. It then comes down to the question of how this very entity can be protected without being “preserved” in such a way that intends to freeze the life around it to a “forced authenticity” — almost more authentic than the authentic itself — and without being allowed to deteriorate out of being neglected for so long. The question of how to handle a historical entity that continues its life in a gradually changing context, when handled with care by specialist researchers in the area, can actually yield very positive results, forming an example for similar situations. In the “Büyük Valide Han project for research on cultural and collective memory, documentation and recollection,” carried out with the support of the Scientific and Technological Research Council of Turkey (TÜBİTAK), four academic researchers have put together an impressive model of how personal attachment and political concern for a place can actually make a change in the way a historical entity is understood and approached. They are four people, four academicians, who have gathered together throughout this project and worked hard to come up with an understanding of Büyük Valide Han as a “functioning” habitat embedded in a certain context of diversity and abandonment awaiting its destiny.
This has so far been an oral history documentation project, and with a perfectly “embedded and situated” researcher like Burak Sevingen on board, it seems that there is no way the residents or even the empty halls of Büyük Valide Han could be discontent with the research results. The reason I have this opinion on this research in general and on an ongoing exhibition that Sevingen and his colleagues have put together in particular is that this project puts forward that an intimate relation between the researched and the researcher is actually possible, which is a huge step forward.
They are four people — Professor Ayşegül Baykan from Yıldız Technical University (YTÜ), Associate Professor Belkıs Uluoğlu from İstanbul Technical University, Associate Professor Zerrin İren Boynudelik from YTÜ and research assistant Sevingen from YTÜ — who have been working on the Büyük Valide Han project since 2006 and have put together an immense amount of footage — hundreds of hours, which have been turned into several documentaries and have been shown throughout their exhibition — thousands of photos and notes recording the oral history of the site, with the support of TÜBİTAK.
For the past few weeks, they have held an amazing exhibition in Büyük Valide Han with video, art, panel discussions and the like. Throughout the exhibition, two TV sets in the exhibition room have shown documentaries about Büyük Valide Han while one TV set displays a slide show of photos.
However, the most exciting way to learn about Büyük Valide Han is to actually go there and spend hours in its multifaceted corridors, spend time in metalwork, glassware or hat ateliers talking to old masters of the craft, go to the çay shop inside the building and have a chat with the people who are inside talking to the usta (expert). Judging by its people and its rituals, it is no wonder that Sevingen spends all his time here doing his anthropological research since Büyük Valide Han is a box of surprises with many mysteries within.
One of the most curious urban legends about Büyük Valide Han is that Kösem Sultan hid all her treasure in the depths of the Byzantine tower that now looks like an extension of the building. And ever since then countless treasure hunters have visited the han before and after the invention of metal detectors.
Since they have been researching Büyük Valide Han for years, it is a good idea to pay attention to the general observations and specific depictions made by this TÜBİTAK-supported academic documentation project. 
Büyük Valide Han Büyük Valide Han is located on the Historical Peninsula of İstanbul. Specifically, it stands in the Han district and within the Mercan neighborhood on Çakmakçılar Yokuşu. Büyük Valide Han (the Grand Han of the Mother Sultan) was built by Kösem Sultan (d. 1651), the mother of Murat IV and İbrahim, rulers of the Ottoman Empire, during the 17th century to provide resources for the upkeep of Çinili Camii, which she had founded earlier. It is a “city han” (as opposed to a caravanserai). With two levels and three courtyards, the Büyük Valide Han of today maintains the original character of the building although it has had significant layers of additions and alterations made in form and structure. Büyük Valide Han in narrative Between the battered walls of Büyük Valide Han, as you enter the first courtyard and then the second, busy traffic and modern-looking storefronts conducting wholesale trade in clothing and fabrics welcome you. Yet, as one’s gaze acquires familiarity with the clash of additions and diverse materials that expand to the second floor, few of whose arches are left, having been diminished by these additions, one senses the sudden loss of human presence among the dark upper corridors, where from behind iron doors one encounters the sounds of only a few ateliers still at work. Yet, tenants who are able to remember Büyük Valide Han from three decades ago can recall a time when all the rooms were packed with workers, dozens of weaving looms working nonstop, porters, turners and foundry men always hard at work, coffee shops crowded and customers abounding. Today, there are more than a few residents who have gone away and, having succeeded or failed in business, have come back to Büyük Valide Han for a new try. Architecture as a life form A comparison of Büyük Valide Han with other hans shows a distinct difference in terms of this building’s dizzying effect. As with most city hans, but maybe to a greater extent here, a multilayered, complex and even a “filthy” character predominates. Different layers exist together; the Byzantine tower and other parts are woven together in the building as if it were a montage. The pre-existent mosque is no longer here; it has been replaced by a contemporary masjid, and another small building stands close to it. Various, mind-blurring materials are side by side and on top of each other. This chaotic hybrid picture reveals the intricacies of the life and history of the building and the hectic character of the lives here. The inhabitants In its population, Büyük Valide Han has embodied the quintessential character of the Ottoman Empire and later the changing character of modern Turkey. It has housed various segments of the population, people of different religions and geographical origins, with skills and trades to exchange. The han adapted to changing times by foregoing its residential rooms and increasingly housing the important trade of the times, such as printing in the late 19th century or fabric weaving during the 20th. Witnesses to the last half century at Büyük Valide Han recall the presence of leather workers, carpet dyers, cardboard traders, chest and scale makers and producers of sacks. Today, the renovated shops opening to its courtyard sell wholesale clothing and other products. On the second floor, one finds workshops of metal workers, pressing rooms, textile shops, etc. Some have been in Büyük Valide Han for 30 to 40 years. Until the 1980s, the weavers on the second floor sold their merchandise, and their traditional customers were often other merchants from Anatolia who were accustomed to coming to Büyük Valide Han for their purchases.
On the second floor, where most rooms are empty and locked up, less than 25 ateliers still operate. In them, craftsmen specialized in metals and textiles make up the two main categories of labor. Turners, polishers, foundry men, jewelers can be found among the metal workers whereas a hat maker, ironers, a cloth dyer and a label maker today make up the population of textile workers in Büyük Valide Han.
The Iranian Masjid, in the second courtyard, which once was a smaller wooden structure serving the large volume of Iranian merchants who used to do business in Büyük Valide Han, is today surrounded by shops, but nevertheless occupies a central role in the lives of a distinct cultural group on İstanbul. The congregation of the mosque are Shiite Muslims. This community comprises mainly former immigrant Azeri families of Iranian descent. This mosque has been their single most important gathering place during times of immigration. It also brings together people who shared a distant past at Büyük Valide Han.
As for the prospect of change, what the four academics think about Büyük Valide Han and its future is that in such cases, layers of living and working conditions and life patterns meaningful in now distant cultures are interwoven into the physical space. Their aim has been to reflect on the ways in which the space of Büyük Valide Han has been meaningful in diverse and sometimes contradictory ways to its inhabitants and also to the body of policy makers, tourists and researchers who objectify the Büyük Valide Han to their own ends. But the TÜBİTAK researchers conducting this project have so far claimed that they have made a small attempt to preserve the memory of Büyük Valide Han — they merely took note of times past.
I believe it is more than a small attempt at providing a model for countless historical entities in its vicinity of how to retain them in our collective unconscious by telling their stories, their personal histories, repeatedly and not letting them be neglected to the point of oblivion ever again.
FULYA ÖZLEM İSTANBUL