www.timeoutistanbul.com/english/5077/provincial_foods_in_istanbul
Nicola Prentis goes on a tour of Turkey’s regional foods without leaving Istanbul.
In a country as vast as Turkey, with as long a history and, nowadays, seven borders, it is no wonder that the different regions have developed such distinct yet overlapping cuisines. Cuisines are shaped by what each area produces, which is a result of the geographical influence on agriculture and what is easily available. For example, harsh mountainous conditions in the Black Sea make raising livestock difficult so local dishes feature predominantly fish. Spices and dried fruits abound in South Eastern Anatolia cooking as it borders Arab countries and the Ottoman Sultans controlled the Spice Routes, while further North flavours are less complex. Even apparent anomalies can be explained this way. Adana, on the Mediterranean coast where fish might be expected, is famous for kebab. The Adana kebab takes its influence from Urfa, in a less spicy incarnation, as it is further from the Syrian border and not on the Spice Road.
Finding all this out on a culinary tour of Turkey could take years, cover thousands of miles and still miss some hidden local food but luckily some of the mountains have come to Mohammed. If you think about the massive influxes of Turkish people from all the corners of Anatolia, it’s not surprising that Istanbul has the best stocked larder with every cuisine represented and expert cooks to prepare it. In restaurants in the dishes’ hometowns, the regional specialties are often noticeable by their absence as, typically, women cook at home and families don’t tend to dine out. So, unless invited into people’s homes, the traveller can end up with major döner and pide fatigue wondering how Turkish cuisine earned its reputation as one of the world’s most renowned. To try regional cuisines in Turkey, the visitor might be best served doing a gastronomic tour right here. Here’s our guide to what to look for and where to get it.
Aegean
Keywords: Olive oil, fish, grasses
The Aegean kitchen has been influenced by the Greeks, Romans, Ottomans, seemingly anyone who invaded, ruled or passed through and the area has an abundance of riches especially from the sea. Fish, mussels, calamari, octopus, prawns cooked in an endless variety of ways including, most notably, salt baked fish where the whole fish is placed under a cake of salt which hardens during cooking and is broken open to reveal tender, and not salty, fish. The healthy theme continues with the vast number of edible weeds that spring up in Autumn and are best eaten simply after boiling and drizzling with olive oil and lemon juice. Also common are black-eyed beans (börülce) and meat eaters are not left out as Çöp Şiş kebab (chunks of skewered lamb) is widely served.
Melengeç
1. Cadde 73, Arnavutköy (opposite the ferry station)
0212 287 4961
Try stuffed zucchini flowers, eggplant with fish, special greens. Recommended: beetroot root, mulberry dessert in summermeats and köftes as well as pastries.